ð$Èmÿ·Œ†%ðÂþ·8kÿ·Àþ·XÂþ·Ô†%,‡%$‡%‡% ‡%‡%‡%ì†%ô†%܆%ä†%D‡%L‡%T‡%4‡%<‡%d‡%\‡%t‡%l‡%ü†%4ð$ð%#TÂþ·`ÿ·Äð$äð$ìî$ˆp˜þ·è¸þ·Æ %€Âþ·ð$|Š%€%´g“¸Áþ·\Áþ·Y† °¢þ·Àù$@cÿ·ä?”dÂþ·libpangocairo-1.0.so.0/usr/local/cpanel/3rdparty/liblibpangocairo-1.0.so.0/usr/local/cpanel/3rdparty/lib/libpango-1.0.so.0ðS¸Âþ·$#XÐÅþ·Àþ·ðÂþ·HÅþ·D#Xœ#X”#Xt#X|#X„#XŒ#X\#Xd#XL#XT#X´#X¼#XÄ#X¤#X¬#XÔ#XÌ#Xä#XÜ#Xl#X4ðS°ˆTDÅþ·`ÿ·? äðSäñSTóSˆ°˜þ·–PThÅþ·ðSð+XX´g“¨Äþ·LÄþ·L† £þ·TðÂþ·T TÅþ·libpango-1.0.so.0/usr/local/cpanel/3rdparty/liblibpango-1.0.so.0/usr/local/cpanel/3rdparty/lib/libcairo.so.28 Åþ·°Ž?°Èþ·ðÂþ·ÐÅþ·(Èþ·èŽ?@?8?? ?(?0???ðŽ?øŽ?X?`?h?H?P?x?p?ˆ?€??48ö8!$Èþ·`ÿ·? ä8ä‘8 “8ˆ ™þ·h£þ·XÛ8HÈþ·8p—?€?´g“ˆÇþ·,Çþ·G† ÿÿÿÿè¨þ· @¥8@cÿ·ä?” 4Èþ·libcairo.so.2/usr/local/cpanel/3rdparty/liblibcairo.so.2/usr/local/cpanel/3rdparty/lib/libgobject-2.0.so.0 ŠxÈþ·deŽ˜Ëþ·ÐÅþ·°Èþ·Ëþ·leŽÄeŽ¼eŽœeŽ¤eŽ¬eŽ´eŽ„eŽŒeŽteŽ|eŽÜeŽäeŽìeŽÌeŽÔeŽüeŽôeŽ fŽfŽ”eŽ4 Š€‹Ëþ·`ÿ·? ä Šä¡ŠD¤Šˆ°™þ·víŠ(Ëþ· ŠoŽ`Ž´g“hÊþ· Êþ·8† 8©þ· œ±Š@cÿ·ä?” Ëþ·libgobject-2.0.so.0/usr/local/cpanel/3rdparty/liblibgobject-2.0.so.0/usr/local/cpanel/3rdparty/lib/libgmodule-2.0.so.0 $`Ëþ·ðQ$°þ·°Èþ·˜Ëþ·ðÍþ·R$XR$PR$0R$8R$@R$HR$R$ R$R$R$pR$xR$€R$`R$hR$R$ˆR$ R$˜R$(R$4 $°+$ìÍþ·`ÿ·Ä $Ô $X $ˆð™þ·'$Îþ· $èS$P$´g“PÍþ·ôÌþ·/† X©þ· #$@cÿ·ä?” üÍþ·libgmodule-2.0.so.0/usr/local/cpanel/3rdparty/liblibgmodule-2.0.so.0/usr/local/cpanel/3rdparty/lib/libglib-2.0.so.0 and was confirmed several times over as the trip continued. The food was fresh, local, and sooooo good. I had a lamb ragout over pasta, and a baby arugula salad (rocket!) that really was the impetus for my now deep affection for this green. The salad had thin slices of parmigiano on top. Of course, we had wine. Two bottles, in fact (it is a wine bar, after all.) Our second, and most memorable bottle was a chianti classico from Vecchie Terre di Montefeli, docg, 2001, from Greve in Chianti. When I asked our waiter for this bottle, she replied, "Molto, molto bene!!" twice. It was a proud moment for me.

By far the best gelato we ate during our 14 days in Italy was at Vivoli. Coffee and hazelnut together are the two best flavors, in my opinion.

Twice we stopped in at a small salumeria on via di Neri for some food to go, and both times were helped by the same nice man. Yum yum yum. I think it is called Gastronomia Baccellini (or maybe Guiliano?), but it is on the Arno side of the street, almost at via del Benci.

I really enjoyed wandering around the pharmacy at Santa Maria Novella. It's unlike any other store you'll likely encounter.

 

Umbria:

If you've been through our Umbria pictures, you've heard about our wonderful afternoon at the Scacciadiavoli winery in Montefalco. If you are in Umbria, try to find a few bottles of their Sagrantino or Grechetto.

Maurizio at Enoteca Poperzio is the kind gentleman who introduced us to Scacciadiavoli, and if you are in Spello, we recommend stopping in for a tasting of wine or olive oil.

In Montefalco, we had a lovely lunch at Enoteca L'Alchimista. Three words: local cheese plate.

 

Hotels/B&Bs

In Rome, we stayed at a place called Antiqua Roma, which was fine. Not strong on finer details, but okay, and in the ultra fun neighborhood of Trastevere. I would maybe stay there again. It wasn't cheap, but what is in Rome? Booked through Venere.

In Florence, we stayed at a B&B (minus the breakfast) called Florence Old Bridge, which was inexpensive, quiet and managed by the very friendly and helpful Cosimo. The B&B is on the "other side" of the Arno, which means fewer tourists. I would definitely stay there again. Also booked through Venere.

In Spello, we had a room with a view! The lovely, small hotel/b&b (with breakfast--excellent cappuccino!) Il Cacciatore is up on one of the hills in the small, walled town of Spello. A lovely older couple manage the hotel, and they were very accommodating and friendly, even if Andy & I couldn't exactly speak Italian. No website, but I was able to book our room via email through the other hotel run by the same family.

 

 

   

Rome


Florence

Umbria

 

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