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The former stables, now offices and tasting rooms.
One evening when we were returning to our hotel in Spello, we stopped at Enoteca Properzio to inquire about wine tastings. We were treated to the ultimate Umbrian wine tasting by Maurizio, while snacking on local olive oils, truffle spreads and bittersweet chocolate (with sagrantino dessert wine--delicious.) Both fortunately and unfortunately, our first taste of the local sagrantino wine was a 1997 riserve--the best vintage for Sagrantino in recent years. It was unbelievable. Really, really amazing. And very, very expensive--if we had bought a bottle, it would have set us back about 84 euro!
When we asked about stopping at a few vineyards in the Montefalco area, Maurizio offered to make an appointment for us at the Scaciadiavola estate, "They are friends of ours," he said. We took him up on his offer, and thanked him for a wonderful experience. If you are ever in Spello, make it a point to visit this Enoteca.
Our expectations for our "appointment" were pretty modest--we assumed we would taste some wine, probably buy a few bottles, and leave. Paolo had a completely different idea. We learned about Prince Ugo, his engineering degrees, his time in France learning about winemaking, and his deep pockets. And of course, we learned about how the Pambuffetti family, who now own the estate, produce their wine.
At one point, Paolo excused himself to talk to a couple of people who had entered the building. It turned out to be the local priest and an altar girl, who were there to bless the wine. It was a most Italian moment! After he blessed the various rooms, the priest asked us a few quesitons, made fun of Paolo, then went on his way.